Colombia: Cartagena de Indias

Cartagena is the second oldest city in Colombia, founded by the Spanish in 1533. It was first a port for exporting gold and silver and then a major slave trading city. After Sir Francis Drake invaded and destroyed a large portion of the city in 1586, the construction of the fortifications (for which Cartagena is now famous) began, and the castle of San Felipe de Barajas was completed during the 17th century. Cartagena achieved independence from the Spanish in 1811, but continued to suffer invasions from the English and North Americans, outbreaks of cholera and famines. Now Cartagena is a popular tourist destination for the well preserved walled city and castle, Colonial houses with colourful balconies and Caribbean beach resorts.

We passed a week or so in Cartagena while I worked. The hostel’s sweet calico cat, Mimi, kept me company writing papers. The poor thing had recently had one leg broken by a motorbike, and limped around dragging her hurt leg. This seemed to be a common malady of the numerous dogs and cats on the streets. They are all lovely animals, the dogs are placid and not aggressive and the cats are friendly, and it is sad to see them looking so sick and hungry.

Typical buildings in the old city with balconies, reminiscent of those in southern Spain

The winter (wet season) had started in the Caribbean and it rained heavily most afternoons. Several times the streets of became rivers, and eventually stinky brown ponds as the drains failed and the heat and humidity rose the next morning.

Street art A cheery toothless smile

Everywhere in Colombia the contrast between rich and poor is blinding, and nowhere more so than Cartagena. In the touristy centre among the fashion boutiques, sushi restaurants and trendy hotels are homeless beggars, starving dogs, the (hard) working class vendors selling food, coffee, and even haircuts. I noticed a distinct difference in the people of Cartagena, many of whom are descendents of the freed slaves. They are generally very reserved, softly spoken and rarely make eye contact; submissive behaviour perhaps a custom from their enslaved ancestors. The colourful dress of the women and the high energy traditional dances clearly have African roots.